Sharanya Iyer with a Taliban soldier in Kandahar, Afghanistan.
Speaking to Hindustantimes.com, she reflected on the vast gap between how Afghanistan treats its own women versus how tourists are treated.
No whitewashing The Taliban regained control of Afghanistan in August 2021, following the withdrawal of US-led forces.
Why she chose Afghanistan For Sharanya Iyer, the fascination with Afghanistan was deeply rooted in the literature and history she consumed growing up, ranging from Rabindranath Tagore’s Kabuliwala to Khaled Hosseini’s novels.
“So, if you're not bound by the laws that Afghan women are bound by, you'll see the warmth of the people.
In an era where social media travel feeds are saturated with picture-perfect photos, Indian travel content creator and filmmaker Sharanya Iyer — also known as 'TrulyNomadly' — chose a path less travelled. Speaking to Hindustantimes.com, the 36-year-old opened up about her recent two-week journey to Afghanistan, offering a raw, unfiltered look into a nation rarely traversed by tourists. Sharanya Iyer with a Taliban soldier in Kandahar, Afghanistan.
Sharanya, who quit her corporate job in 2019 to travel full-time, made it clear that her intention was never to present a romanticized or sanitized version of the country. Speaking to Hindustantimes.com, she reflected on the vast gap between how Afghanistan treats its own women versus how tourists are treated.
No whitewashing The Taliban regained control of Afghanistan in August 2021, following the withdrawal of US-led forces. Since returning to power, the Taliban has imposed a strict interpretation of Islamic law that has reshaped daily life, especially for women and girls.
Women have been banned from attending secondary schools and universities, barred from most jobs, restricted from travelling long distances without a male guardian, and required to follow strict dress codes. They have also been excluded from many public spaces, including parks, gyms and beauty salons.
"One thing I consciously didn't want to do was return from Afghanistan and present only a whitewashed version of the country. A lot of travellers—especially from Western countries—have been criticised for only showing the positive side," Sharanya told Hindustantimes.com.
"Does Afghanistan have beautiful places? Absolutely. Are the people warm and hospitable? Absolutely. But does that mean we stop talking about what's happening to women there? I believe the answer is no."
Why she chose Afghanistan For Sharanya Iyer, the fascination with Afghanistan was deeply rooted in the literature and history she consumed growing up, ranging from Rabindranath Tagore’s Kabuliwala to Khaled Hosseini’s novels. She was drawn to the country's ancient heritage and shared history with India.
Asked why she chose to travel to Afghanistan — a country facing boycott on several fronts because of its regime, the travel vlogger explained that her perspective on travelling to heavily sanctioned nations was first reshaped during a month-long solo backpacking trip through Iran in 2022.
(Also read: Afghan women hit by Taliban education ban go online to pursue dreams)
Her experience in Iran taught her to separate a country’s citizens from its ruling regime — a philosophy she carried with her when planning her trip to Afghanistan. She also sought a sense of genuine discovery that she felt had been lost in modern, over-documented tourist hubs.
From Kabul to Bamiyan: Cost and logistics Departing from New Delhi in November 2025, Sharanya flew directly to Kabul on Kam Air, an Afghan airline, alongside a cabin filled mostly with Afghan locals returning home from working in India.
Architectural landmarks and archaeological heritage formed the core of Sharanya’s itinerary. She travelled to the valley of Bamiyan in the Hindu Kush mountains, exploring the empty niches where the world's tallest Buddha statues stood before being destroyed by the Taliban in 2021.
Besides Kabul and Bamiyan, she also went to Panjshir Valley, Ghazni and Kandahar, which is the stronghold of the Taliban.
The entire 12-to-13-day trip cost her approximately ₹2.1 lakh, an amount that covered flights, accommodation, meals, fuel, and entry tickets. Because she was filming her journey, she hired a private guide and driver.
(Also read: Women’s rights crisis in Afghanistan is ongoing humanitarian calamity)
“The Taliban, in the last year or more, has mandated travelling with a guide for tourists because you need permits to move between every province. My passport had to be shown, and all the permits had to be arranged before I landed in Afghanistan,” the travel vlogger explained.
“You have to have your route planned in advance, and you need a guide because they're the ones who apply for the permits. At every checkpoint, they show the documents, and if the Taliban decides to call you out of the car, they'll have a brief chat with you before letting you go. I had a local guide and a driver throughout my trip to travel between the provinces.”
The silent crisis While Sharanya observed stunning landscapes and warm hospitality, the dark reality of systemic human rights abuses — particularly the extreme oppression of women — was not lost on her.
“So, if you're not bound by the laws that Afghan women are bound by, you'll see the warmth of the people. You'll see them going out of their way to host you… The Afghan people are very hospitable. They love Indians. They won’t let you pay,” said the 36-year-old.
