The second-generation Ulysse Nardin (UN) Freak X proves that good things can come in small(er) packages, with an all-new micro-rotor calibre powering the Freak’s signature ‘flying carousel’ architecture.
The new movement debuts in a smaller 41 mm steel case with an interchangeable strap system.
Initial thoughtsThere’s a lot to like about the updated Freak X.
The simplified Freak X watered down this design with a more traditional architecture and an ordinary crown at three o’clock.
The new Freak X keeps the crown, but now it screws down to help achieve its 100 m water resistance rating.
The second-generation Ulysse Nardin (UN) Freak X proves that good things can come in small(er) packages, with an all-new micro-rotor calibre powering the Freak’s signature ‘flying carousel’ architecture. The new movement debuts in a smaller 41 mm steel case with an interchangeable strap system.
Initial thoughts
There’s a lot to like about the updated Freak X. It retains the wandering tourbillon-style architecture that UN describes as a flying carousel, powered by an all-new micro-rotor calibre that’s been upgraded with the brand’s DiamonSil escapement package. It’s also noticeably smaller than the outgoing model, while boasting superior water resistance thanks in part to the collection’s first screw-down crown.
Strap options have been expanded thanks to an interchangeable strap system that includes a stainless steel bracelet. These upgrades come with a modest increase to retail pricing, which starts at US$41,200 — essentially the same price as one of the special edition versions of the first-generation Freak X.
Some will mourn the ‘downgrade’ from titanium to steel, but that’s a relatively minor issue given the reduced case size, and furthermore the release of titanium options in the future seems all but guaranteed.
Smaller but better
When the Freak debuted 25 years ago, it shocked the industry with its novel construction, which integrated the entire going train and escapement into an enormous minutes hand. The Freak X keeps the overall look mostly in tact even if the concept has been slightly simplified to incorporate the train into the dial plate that carries the hour hand.
One of the design elements most synonymous with the original Freak was the lack of a crown — the watch was wound by the case back and set via the bezel. The simplified Freak X watered down this design with a more traditional architecture and an ordinary crown at three o’clock.
The new Freak X keeps the crown, but now it screws down to help achieve its 100 m water resistance rating. It screws into a stainless steel case that’s been downsized from 43 mm to 41 mm, with a corresponding decrease in lug-to-lug length, which is now an even more wearable 47.3 mm.
The case is 13.6 mm thick, which is roughly the midpoint between the thinnest version of the outgoing model, and those with artistic dials, which measured 13.78 mm. It looks even thinner thanks to a new box-shaped sapphire crystal that absorbs some of the height.
A freaking micro-rotor
Despite the nominal change in the calibre designation — the outgoing full-rotor automatic was dubbed the UN-230 — the UN-232 is a different beast. The jewel-mounted micro-rotor is the most obvious change, differentiated from most micro-rotor designs by the presence of an upper support bridge.
This design is reminiscent of certain vintage Universal Geneve movements like the cal. 12P and more recent automatics from the likes of Laurent Ferrier and Romain Gauthier.
The movement is still powered by a mainspring barrel that is, at least by Freak standards, quite ordinary. This construction contrasts with that of the flagship Freak, which uses almost the full width of the calibre for a massive mainspring.
That said, the updated Freak X has evolved to have more in common with its big brother in a meaningful way, which is the DiamonSil escapement, which uses what is effectively diamond-coated silicon for the escape wheel and one-piece pallet fork. The DiamonSil coating is new for the Freak X — prior versions sufficed with silicon components that lacked the diamond coating.
This assembly imparts energy to a silicon balance wheel mounted to the brand’s state-of-the-art ovoid silicon hairspring, which is engineered to improve isochronism.
Interestingly, UN claims that each movement is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker, as opposed to the increasingly common practice of de-skilled assembly line-style production. Assembly line production can increase throughput and reduce production costs, but it’s difficult to reconcile this approach with the romantic ideals of haute horlogerie.
Key facts and price
Ulysse Nardin Freak X
Ref. 2323-500-1A/0A (grey)
Ref. 2323-500-3A/7A (blue)
Ref. 2323-500-2A/1A (gold)
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. UN-232
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Leather with case-matched folding clasp or stainless steel bracelet
Limited edition: No
Availability: Ulysse Nardin retailers and boutiques
Price: US$41,200 (grey), $42,400 (blue on bracelet), $64,000 (gold) excluding taxes
For more, visit ulysse-nardin.com.
