Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist.

The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings.

Initial thoughts

Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars.

The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution.

The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe ref. 5235G on the secondary market.

Myriad improvements

The 1963 Heritage Regulator is an evolution of the L.U.C Regulator introduced in 2015. Objectively, the main improvements are the size, which has been reduced from 43 mm to 40 mm, and the power reserve, which has increased from eight to nine days.

The reduction in size has resulted in a secondary benefit, which is the deletion of the superfluous labels for the seconds and hours sub-dials. The presence of these labels on earlier L.U.C Regulators always struck me as odd, since the indications themselves are self-explanatory; the sub-dial that counts to 12 is obviously an hours display, and the hand that is constantly in motion can only be the running seconds.

I can tolerate the “GMT” label for the second time zone display because it might reasonably be confused with a day/night indicator, and moreover the new embossed text is more attractive and subtle than the printed markings of the original. Finally, the date window as been relocated to the six o’clock sub-dial for a much more balanced look top to bottom.

The shape of the 18k white case has also been refined with a more rounded shape, as opposed to its more slab-sided stablemates in the L.U.C collection. One case detail I particularly like is the so-called “stadium” spacer ring around the movement, which protects various case back markings like the serial number, Geneva hallmark, and the case hallmarks underneath the sapphire crystal.

This format means these markings are protected from both scratches and errant polishing and will remain crisp and clear throughout the life of the watch. Perhaps for this reason, extra care seems to have been taken in selecting the elegant fonts that are neatly machined into the spacer ring.

Quattro tech

The cal. L.U.C 98.02-L makes use of Chopard’s Quattro technology, which uses four barrels linked in series to power the 1963 Heritage Regulator for up to nine days. The power reserve is substantial, and impressive considering the peppy 4 Hz rate that should help maintain a stable rate.

Naturally, for those keeping track, a long power reserve at such high frequency dictates some trade-offs. In this case, that means a small balance wheel. That said, the oscillator is beautifully made with an overcoil hairspring, and is adjusted by means of a micrometric swan’s neck regulator.

The movement is also a COSC-certified chronometer; likely one of the longest-autonomy movements submitted for certification after the Patek Philippe T 28-20 REC 10J PS IRM that powers the ref. 5101 10-day tourbillon.

Chronometer testing does not validate performance throughout the entire duration of the power reserve, but the fact the L.U.C 98.02-L can pass the test with nine days of power on tap hints at the stability of the Quattro system.

A discreet pusher at eight o’clock advances the GMT display in one-hour increments. This means the functionality is oriented toward tracking the time somewhere else rather than seamlessly updating local time when crossing time zones — in other words, it’s a so-called “caller” GMT. The pusher makes quick work of setting the GMT display, but the tactile feel of the actuation could be improved, as it feels somewhat mushy.

In terms of finishing, the L.U.C 98.02-L is an example of industrial-haute horlogerie done well. The movement qualifies for the Geneva seal — a certification that now extends to the case and dial — but the finishing goes well beyond the minimum requirements.

The machined bevels around the barrel pivots gleam brightly, as does the steelwork on the balance cock. The engraved marking are deeply machined with crisp serifs, and the lustre of the Cote de Geneve striping is soft and appealing.

Key Facts and Price

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

Ref. 161993-1001

Diameter: 40 mm

Height: 10.3 mm

Material: 18k white gold

Crystal: Sapphire

Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L.U.C 98.02-L

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, second time zone

Winding: Hand-wind

Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)

Power reserve: 9 days

Strap: Grey alligator strap with 18k white gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 25 pieces

Availability: At Chopard boutiques

Price: US$50,900 excluding taxes

For more, visit Chopard.com.